What Is The Ideal Gap Between Drip Edge and Gutter

The drip edge and gutter are indispensable parts of a functional roof system. Well, a few roofers omit them. But the consequences are dire as each plays a critical role in containing and directing rainwater.

However, the ideal gap between the drip edge and the gutter is the source of great confusion. At what point is it too small or too big, and what are the potential consequences? We’ve developed this guide to answer all your questions about this troublesome gap.

What’s the Ideal Gap Between the Drip Edge and Gutter System?

You must install gutters as close as possible to the shingle roof edge, ideally 2-3 inches out. A larger gap permits rainwater to flow outside the gutter system, potentially damaging the fascia or the foundation below. However, the gap varies because the gutter must slope towards the downspout for seamless water drainage.

What’s a Drip Edge?

A drip edge is angled metal flashing installed at the roof edges to encourage water to flow away from the fascia board. Additionally, it protects the underlying roofing components, including the decking and underlayment material.

It’s installed on the roof’s exterior cover, between the roof sheathing and fascia board, overhanging the roof edges by a few centimeters. 

The most common drip edge materials are aluminum, galvanized steel, and copper. Meanwhile, plastic, vinyl, and fiberglass drip edges are available for non-roofing applications, such as above windows and doors.

What does a Roof Drip Edge Flashing do?

A roof drip edge does many things and may even prolong the roof’s life. The following are a few reasons you should install one;

  1. It directs water away from the fascia. 
  2. Protects the fascia board from wind-driven rain
  3. Safeguards the edges of the roof
  4. Bridges the gap between the fascia board and the roof shingles
  5. Improves gutter performance
  6. It provides extra winter protection

Drip Edge vs. Gutter Apron: What’s the Difference?

Drip edges and gutter aprons serve the same purpose. They both direct water into the gutter and away from problem areas. However, they differ in a few ways. For instance, a standard drip edge is T-shaped, while traditional gutter aprons are L-shaped. Additionally, installing a drip edge on an existing roof is much easier.

How Far should Gutters Be from the Drip Edge? 

Gutters should extend 2-3 inches past the drip edge. This gap ensures the correct watershed. In addition, it ensures water doesn’t get trapped in the shingles, causing roof damage.

However, the exact distance varies depending on various factors, like the type of gutter and roof. For instance, tile roofs must extend at most 1/4 to 3/4 inches beyond the drip edge flashing.

In addition, gutters typically tilt towards the downspout. So, the distance between the gutters and drip edge varies depending on where you measure. It’s slightly larger where the gutter system connects to the downspout.

What Happens if the Drip Edge is Not Installed Correctly? 

If the drip edge is installed poorly, water will not flow into the gutter correctly. This problem often leads to wood rot, with the fascia board the first culprit. Wet rot can completely damage wooden fascia in a few years.

Water damage due to incorrectly installed drip edge flashing can cause soffit damage, necessitating expensive repairs.

Worse, incorrectly installed drip edges can catch storm water, causing further water damage.

Finally, condensation and rainwater may flow back under the shingles if the drip edge is installed incorrectly. This can damage the shingles, roofing felt, and potentially the decking material.

What Happens if you Omit the Drip Edge Flashing? 

Omitting the drip edge from the roof structure is not catastrophic. However, it can cause multiple costly problems, including the following.

  • Fascia board rot: Without the drip edge, water drains down the outer face of the fascia board, causing water stains and gradually weakening the fascia board. Eventually, the fascia board rots.
  • Water stains: The water dripping behind the gutter also causes gutter stains. You can easily see the stains when you remove the gutter. More importantly, a gutter cleaning company can wipe away the stains, albeit at a cost. 
  • Roof eave leaks: Missing drip edges eventually cause leaks below the eaves. This is a big issue for many reasons. For instance, it causes inconvenience if the eaves overhang the sidewalk.

How Do You Fix a Gap Between the Drip Edge and Gutter? 

The following are eight ways to address the gap between the drip edge and gutter, depending on the severity of the problem.

1. Replace Missing or Loose Fasteners

Gaps between the drip edge and gutter are mainly the result of loose fasteners due to age. In addition, the long nails holding the gutter in place become loosely attached as the fascia ages, causing the gutter to sag.

To fix the problem, inspect the gutter system for loose or missing fasteners and replace them accordingly.

We recommend replacing missing nails with modern gutter screws with threads at the tip. The screws hold the gutters firmly for longer by preventing nail “pops.” A nail pop is a phenomenon where the wood forces out nails as the wood shrinks.

But first, ensure the fascia board is in good shape. Sponginess and visible wood rot are signs you must replace the gutter. 

2. Repair and Replace Damaged Sections

The gap between the gutters and drip edge may result from damaged or missing drip edge sections.

For instance, a strong storm can blow away the drip edge if the fastening nails are loose. Alternatively, the drip edge can rust and disintegrate, resulting in hills and valleys. So, you’ll notice seeping water behind the gutters on the fascia.

The first step is to probe the roof length to determine the drip edge’s condition. Then decide whether to repair or replace the damaged section. Alternatively, you can replace the whole drip edge length.

You must temporarily uninstall sections of the gutter to replace missing or damaged drip edge sections.

After removing the gutter, pry out the first row of fasteners holding down the shingles, and use a pry by to lift out remnants of the damaged or missing drip edge. Then replace the drip edge, reattach the shingles, and reinstall the gutter.

3. Install Hidden Gutter Brackets

Hidden gutter brackets, also popular as hidden hangers, are modern equipment for mounting gutters. They clip to the inside walls of the gutter, screwing directly into the fascia board via threaded steel screws.

It’s called a “hidden” hanger because the brackets are not visible from the ground since they don’t pierce the gutter face like old hangers. 

A typically hidden gutter hanger features a J-hook that goes under the lip of the gutter on the outside while the other end with the bolt hooks against the inner gutter edges. After positioning the J-hook, fasten the bolt into the fascia, taking care not to overtighten.

Hidden hangers don’t come loose for a long time, typically 20-30 years, depending on the brand. Indeed, they often outlast the fascia board. So, you can reuse them when replacing the roof or fascias.

4. Install a Drip Edge Extension

A drip edge extension is a plastic or metal flashing that extends the drip edge past the fascia board. So, it’s another easy way to fix the gap between the drip edge and the gutter. The extension goes behind the drip edge to force water into the gutter.

Unfortunately, the extensions are rare and difficult to find. So, you should speak with your gutter guy about it.

Alternatively, search “drip edge extension” or “drip extension edge” on Google. YOST manufacturing and Supplies is among the best-known drip edge extension manufacturers.

The extensions are a great choice when you cannot position the back of the gutter under the drip edge for pitch or other reasons. Instead, place the extension under the drip edge and over the back of the gutter.

5. Install a Drip Strip

A drip strip is almost similar to a drip edge extension. However, it’s often made of absorbent cellulose fibers and primarily used under windows to trap and hold condensation and moisture.

But one company, Drip Strip, makes drip strips that you can use to fill the gap between the gutter ad drip edge. The drip strip sits between the bottom of the drip edge and the gutter top to ensure water flowing from the roof enters the gutter rather than flowing behind it.

Again, it’s very easy to install. First, identify and mark the affected area. Then unwind the tape and stick it to the surface. You can stack the layers of tape to raise the drip edge as much as you wish.

Unfortunately, drip strips aren’t very durable. The fibers come off after several months or a few years due to water and sun exposure. So, it works best as a temporary solution.

6. Seal the Gap Using Silicone Caulk

One of the best ways to bridge large gaps between gutters and drip edges is using silicone caulk because caulk is weather resistant. Moreover, high-quality silicone caulk can last many years.

To use the silicone caulk:

  1. Begin by cleaning and surface.
  2. Use a broom to sweep away the debris.
  3. Wipe the section with a wet rag and allow it to dry. 

After the surface dries, apply sufficient silicone caulk to fill the targeted gap. It’s better to overfill and wipe away excess caulk than apply too little sealant. Caulk dries to the touch in 30 minutes but takes up to 30 days to cure fully. So, use it in fair weather.

7. Replace Narrow Gutters with Wide Gutters

You may have noticed that many homeowners are switching to wider gutters, with 6-inch and 7-inch gutters the norm in many states. There’s a reason behind it. Wider gutters gather more water, preventing fascia damage and overspills.

Indeed, switching from 5-inch to 6-inch gutters allows you to handle up to 40% more water. Meanwhile, switching from a 5-inch to a 7-inch gutter allows you to handle about twice the water volume.

Switching to wider gutters prevents fascia damage, reducing the risk of loose fasteners. Moreover, wider gutters can handle more load, reducing the risk of loose fasteners.

However, beware that oversize gutters can take the shine off your property. Moreover, you want to put only a little weight on your fascia.

8. Fix Poorly Installed Shingles

Sometimes the roof needs to be better installed with more shingle overhang, making gutter installation difficult. In such cases, the roofer may place shims between the fascia and gutter to ensure better gutter alignment.

While it solves the problem of ensuring the gutter perfectly aligns with the edge of the shingles, shims can create a large gap between the gutter and the drip edge. An extra large gap invites rainwater behind the gutters, causing fascia and soffit damage.

To fix this issue, you must correct the root cause. Unfortunately, this often means getting poorly installed sections of the roof replaced.

Ask your roofer how to realign the shingles for better gutter installation. Typically, the roofer will remove the first course of shingles and inspect the decking and rafters to determine the main problem.

9. Consider Custom Flashing

Customization covers a lot, from finding the perfect material to bending the drip edge the right way. For instance, a thicker material may cover the gaping hole much better. Alternatively, some drip edges can bend into unique shapes for maximum functionality.

Angled drip edges are another option. They are customized to match the roof slope, ensuring maximum performance without leaving a gap between the edge flashing and the gutter. 

There are two ways to source for customized drip edges. First, you can search your favorite drip edge brands online and fill out forms to help the contractor pick the best design for your situation.

Alternatively, the roofer comes to your home, takes the necessary measurements, and builds custom flashing based on the existing challenges.

Drip Edge Code Requirements 

“Does code require a drip edge?” is a common question from homeowners. The short answer is – it depends.

The International Residential Code (IRC) didn’t require metal drip edges and rake edges until 2012. Therefore, many older homes lack one. Moreover, the local code may not mandate a drip edge, depending on where you live.

Nevertheless, Section R905..8.5 of the revised IRC guidelines mandates a drip edge for new buildings. It states that “a drip edge shall be provided at the eaves and rake edges of shingle roofs” and defines specifications for drip edge installation.

For instance, “adjacent edges of the drip edge must not overlap by less than two inches.” Also, “the drip edge must extend at least 1/4 inches below the roof sheathing, extending back up onto the roof deck by two inches or more.”

It also answers common questions, such as where to fasten the drip edge, stating, “the drip edge is mechanically fastened to the roof deck no more than 12 inches on-center following Section R905.2.5 guidelines.”

Proper Drip Edge Installation: How to Install Drip Edge Flashing 

It’s easy to install drip edges, especially during roof installation. Continue roofing until you’ve installed the decking. Then install the drip edge as follows;

  1. Align the drip edge with the shingles: Starting at the eaves, place the first drip edge down and align it, so the water drips into the gutter. The flanged end points down, away from the roof.
  2. Secure the drip edge tight with roofing nails: Nail high up on the drip edge, so the shingles fully conceal the drip edge nails. We recommend nailing every 12-16 inches.
  3. Install successive drip edge pieces: The next piece overlaps the previous one by an inch. Drive at least two nails into the overlapping section.
  4. Cut the drip edge where the rake and eaves intersect: Mark the aluminum flashing material at the intersection and cut it.
  5. Continue installing drip edge flashing on the rakes: The process is similar to the eaves. Again, cut the flashing where it intersects with the eaves. But this time, allow the rake edge to slightly overlap the eave drip edge. Continue until you cover the entire roof edge.

Other Drip Edge Installation Considerations 

When getting the brown drip edge installed or during repairs, the following are additional factors to keep in mind.

How Far Should Gutters Stick Out from the Siding?

Gutters must extend past the roof edge to catch water. Otherwise, they may miss the water. For this reason, about half to three-quarters of a standard gutter system sticks beyond the shingles or drip edge.

How Far Should Gutters Be From Fascia Boards?

A gap is not needed between the gutters and wooden fascia boards. Indeed, a gap between the gutter and fascia board points to poor gutter installation or aging fasteners. You must rectify the problem promptly to prevent fascia damage. An easy fix is to fill the space with silicone caulk. Alternatively, reinstall the gutter system properly.

Why is there a gap between the gutter and the fascia?

Gaps between the gutter and fascia are mainly due to loose fasteners. For instance, gutter fasteners loosen after years of bearing the weight of rainwater, leaves, and debris. Alternatively, the fasteners can loosen due to damaged or weak fascia. 

Should there be a gap between the drip edge and fascia?

Yes. You should see a small gap between the drip edge and the fascia board. The exact figures depend on multiple factors, including the type of roof. However, many roofing professionals leave a small gap between the edge and fascia, about a finger’s width. 

How Do I Fix the Gap Between the Gutter and Fascia?

Silicone sealant sealing is the easiest way to fix a small gap between the gutter and fascia board. This prevents water from leaking between the gutter and fascia. First, wipe the surfaces with a rag and allow them to dry. Then apply silicone sealant such as Gorilla Waterproof Silicone Sealant and allow it to set overnight.

How Much is Drip Edge Installation?

Installing a standard drip edge costs $1 to $3 per linear foot, with most homeowners spending $150 to $1,000 on the entire project. However, unique designs and high-end materials like copper cost more, typically up to $15 per linear foot. Meanwhile, drip edge repairs cost $45 to $75 per hour.

FAQs

Why Doesn’t My Roof Have a Drip Edge?

The drip edge is missing from some roofs because it’s not part of the roofing bid. Instead, it’s considered an “extra,” meaning you must request your roofer to install it. However, many revised state building codes now require a drip edge. So, nearly all new buildings have one.

Who Do I Call to Install Drip Edge Flashing?

It’s best to call a professional roofer to install your drip edge. A skilled DIYer may also pull it off. But remember that drip edge installation is now a code requirement. So, home inspections may find minor issues if the feature needs to be installed professionally.

Should the Drip Edge Touch the Fascia Board?

No, the drip edge doesn’t touch the fascia board. Instead, leave a small space, about the finger’s width, between the drip edge and the fascia. A few people also ask whether you nail the drip edge to the fascia board. Again, the answer is – no. So instead, the drip edge is nailed high up on the roof deck.

Can You Install a Gutter Apron Over Drip Edges?

Yes, you can install a gutter apron over a drip edge. The apron goes underneath the drip edge to provide an additional seal between the roof and the gutter system. However, be warned that it takes a delicate balance for the two to work harmoniously. Therefore, professional installation is a must.

Rake Edge vs. Drip Edge, What’s the Difference?

Drip and rake edges are pretty much the same thing. Both roof edge features stalled at the bottom edge of the roof to direct water into the gutter and away from the fascia board. The main difference is the location. Drip edges are located along the eaves. Meanwhile, rake edges are installed along the rakes.

Summary

A gap between the drip edge and gutter is often due to poor shingle installation, age-related damage, or loose fasteners. However, you can easily fix the problem by tightening the loose fasteners or sealing the space with silicone caulk. If that doesn’t work, realign the edge shingles and consider custom edge flashing.